The basilica never really closes: open 6:30 am to 10:30 pm, it leaves its steps to those who want to watch Paris switch off and back on. Guitars, bottles, first metros — this is the city's balcony.
The right time
Two options: 11 pm for the city lit up, or 6:30 am for sunrise while the tourists are still asleep.
Lights
White dome lit all night; below, the lampposts of square Louise-Michel.
The photo spot
From rue Foyatier (the funicular steps), the basilica framed by lampposts; or from the steps, Paris from above.
The tip
Montmartre has its queer addresses and its cabaret: Madame Arthur is at the foot of the hill on rue des Martyrs.